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Florida Cookery, located at the James Royal Palm Hotel, is Kris Wessel's debut in South Beach. The James Beard Award-nominated chef, who previously owned Red Light Little River in a seedy motel on Biscayne Boulevard, has upgraded to a new, swanky setting. Here, his cuisine represents a love letter to Florida. The restaurant's name was inspired by a late-'40s pamphlet about Sunshine State cooking that belonged to the chef's grandmother. His interpretations involve cast-iron-seared frogs' legs, alligator empanadas, and Puerto Rican pineapple rum cake. Flavors bounce between diverse ethnic and cultural influences: Latin America, the Caribbean, and the U.S. Northeast. But sticklers for efficient service would consider this polished restaurant quite unpleasant. Dinners are structured haphazardly. Sharing plates rarely arrive. Improper eating utensils are delivered. Dishes are cleared too soon or too late. In other words, go to Florida Cookery for the Florida cuisine, not for the service.
Your mother birthed you, fed you, clothed you, and defended you from the bully down the street. She put Bactine on your skinned knees and nursed you through your first heartbreak. Her thankless job in... More »
Easter. For some, the day means waking up before dawn to attend sunrise church services with family. For others, it means an egg hunt with the kids, a parade with silly hats, or the celebration of spr... More »
Florida Cookery's manager, an unflappable and poker-faced woman dressed in an austere black-and-white uniform, set a heavy spiny lobster dish on our table. Around her, the dining room lit up with that unique razzle-dazzle that South Beach... More »
Florida Cookery's manager, an unflappable and poker-faced woman dressed in an austere black-and-white uniform, set a heavy spiny lobster dish on our table. Around her, the dining room lit up with that... More »
Sometimes, dinners are meant to splurge on. It's a once-a-year thing when you can eat to your heart's content without a worry greater than getting spinach in your teeth. (Don't fret, there's not much ... More »
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