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Anoush Ansari and Hadi Anbar, the duo behind Atlas Grill and Mission, bring meat-heavy, flame-grilled fare to the Rosedale mall. Step u pto the host's stand and you'll think you're having a hot flash--but it's just the grill in the open kitchen and the ring of decorative torches above it. It's a sharp-looking space with an open floor plan, crimson hues, big windows, spacious booths, and a whole wall of stacked firewood. Flame's menu offers the standard burgers, salads, and sandwiches, plus plenty of atypical mall fare, including ceviche, kebobs, and rotisserie meats. While the theme's incorporation in the decor might be a bit overstated, the wonders fire does for food cannot be. The chicken kebob, like those served at some of Ansari and Anbar's other restaurants, is inspired by the Persian fare the two grew up on. The tender meat comes with a skewer of roasted red peppers, mushrooms, tomatoes, and zucchini, which are all infused with a subtle smokiness that pairs nicely with a bed of fluffy jasmine rice and a drizzle of beurre blanc. The dish is a gem, particularly compared to the greasy chicken stir-fries or dried-out chicken sandwiches that hungry shoppers are usually stuck with.
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