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Despite the misguided moniker and wacky menu organization (dishes are listed from lightest to heaviest, with appetizers in red and entrees in black), the food at Michael Psilakis's new Cape Coddish-looking seafood joint is high-aspiring and often very successful. Certain dishes are occasionally over-thought to the point of confusion, but chef de cuisine Ryan Skeen pulls out all the stops in dishes like the sheep's milk dumplings with sea urchin fonduta, grilled branzino stuffed with head cheese, and bruschetta slathered with shrimp, feta, and enough members of the allium family to (happily) prevent any imminent make-out sessions.
Recent months haven't been great for restaurant names. The Fat Radish. Goat Town. Sensebowl. And now FishTag. Let's play word association for a minute. Did "skin tag" come to mind? It did for me. It also reminded me of the fuzzy parasite that... More »
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