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If you really want to, you can order up a three-course meal at this Taiwanese restaurant. But that's not what the legions of food-lovers who are squeezing onto benches and juggling soup bowls at this small, chic strip-mall restaurant have come for. They're here to graze—with variety as their guiding principle—on thick soups ("pottages"), small plates of cabbage or lamb, chow mein, and stretchy yam-flour pancakes studded with oysters or shrimp. One must-try dish, if only to satisfy your curiosity, is the pork "burger," a puffy steamed bun wrapped around braised pork belly, cilantro, and a blend of ground peanuts and granulated sugar. The Chinese-language items on the menu are either offal dishes or sweet shaved ice.
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