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The owners of this new Eastern European eatery have worked magic on the space, refurbishing the antique tin ceiling and brick walls, creating a hospitable bar area in front, and a small dining room in back. The menu is heavy on the dumplings and stewed meat, and the bar is stocked with German and Czech beer, Hungarian wines, and Becherovka, an herbal Czech liquor that is shaken into cocktails or sipped straight. HaluÂšky, tiny dumplings tossed with tangy cheese, chives and bacon, have a comforting chew. Shredded celery root salad is aromatic with caraway and enriched with a tart buttermilk dressing.
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