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Tom Douglas' second restaurant -- or the first indicator of his empire-building tendencies -- is where most tourists initially acquaint themselves with the James Beard award-winning chef. Etta's welcome mat qualities are immediately apparent to diners who've experienced Pacific Northwest cuisine elsewhere: The flavors here don't pop vividly, and the seafood preparations are pretty classical. But, as an introduction to the region, the Dungeness crab cakes, seafood cioppino with fennel and a saffron-tomato broth, clam chowder with bacon and salmon coated in the branded Douglas rubs are way better than adequate.
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