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What began as a wine bar has become one of the more intriguing establishments in the metro east, with a topnotch wine list and beer selection and a tiny kitchen that has been home to such talented chefs as Kevin Willmann (now of Farmhaus) and Jonathan Olson. The menu features thoughtful, often inventive, preparations that utilize as much local product as possible.
As I waddled back to my car after the latest Dorm Room dinner at Lafayette Square's 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, the evening air thick with wood smoke from the grill where Marc Baltes was braising pork shoulder for the next seating, I wondered... More »
For this week's review, I returned to one of St. Louis' many established sushi restaurants. Still, we can't seem to get enough nigiri, sashimi and rolls. Yet another new sushi restaurant has opened: Café Mochi at 3221 South Grand... More »
In the past twelve months, I've reviewed 62 restaurants (and one minor-league baseball stadium). I've traveled to Columbia and the Metro East. I've sampled the cuisines of Korea, Japan, Ethiopia and Eritrea, Iran, Thailand, Bosnia, Brazil,... More »
Executive chef Kevin Willmann emerged from the Erato kitchen, a slightly dazed expression on his young, bearded face. It was after nine on Saturday night, and the dining room was packed though now, finally, most patrons seemed to be finishing... More »
Greek mythology identifies nine muses, all daughters of Zeus (who apparently never wore a jimmy hat). Each of these fine, buxom women pursued a different endeavor, ranging from history to dance to astronomy to comedy. We're most concerned with... More »
What do you need to be a topnotch chef? A fancy, cutting-edge kitchen? A corps of a dozen line cooks at your beck and call? Prime real estate in a major metropolitan area? None of the above, if you're Kevin Willmann. In a kitchen that makes a freshman dorm room look expansive, in a restaurant a half-hour's drive from downtown St. Louis, Willmann takes ingredients from local producers and fashions them into dishes that are playful in conception, beautiful on the plate and, above all else, delicious. The menu changes frequently, but you're certain to encounter unusual combinations — peach and prosciutto, scallops and truffled whipped cream — and contemporary spins on good ol' fashioned home cookin'. (If a dish includes spoon bread, order it.) Willmann was born in Greenville, Illinois. After making his bones along the Gulf Coast in Florida, he worked at several St. Louis restaurants: Big Sky Café, Lucas Park Grille and Mosaic. But it's at Erato in downtown Edwardsville that he has found the perfect outlet for his talent. Yes, the kitchen is small, but it hardly matters when the talent is so great.
Great little wine bar, not only for drinking wine but also for people watching!
I've only been there once to eat and once to drink. The drinking was enjoyable (good selection of beers and wines,) but the food....ohhh, the food -- it was the best meal I've gone out to eat.
What do you need to be a topnotch chef? A fancy, cutting-edge kitchen? A corps of a dozen line cooks at your beck and call? Prime real estate in a major metropolitan area? None of the above, if you're Kevin Willmann. In a kitchen that makes a freshman dorm room look expansive, in a restaurant a half-hour's drive from downtown St. Louis, Willmann takes ingredients from local producers and fashions them into dishes that are playful in conception, beautiful on the plate and, above all else,... More »
Chef Kevin WillmannEmploys the "small plates" conceptTo its best effect.His dishes aren't mereAppetizers disguised asTapas or small plates.He treats each like aMiniature work of art:Plump cubes of tuna,Sushi-grade, served witha streak of truffled mustardflecked with balsamicCandied into specks,The autumnal colors likeA Rothko painting.Or a pair of soups:Corn and fennel, tomatoAnd garlic. Both thickAnd brightly colored,One strong and verdant, the otherMild, but with zip.Beauty in restraint,As... More »
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