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This French bistro has an intriguing sideline: Tunisian food, including a few specialties you won't find elsewhere. Foremost is brick, a curious fan-shaped pastry featuring canned tuna and a runny egg that remains hemmed in until you bite down and the yolk squirts all over everything. Hey, it's good! There's also a spicy onion, tomato, and red pepper bread dip called mischouia and an abundant mixed grill matching four merguez sausages with four fork-tender baby lamb chops. Be warned: The Moroccan dishes, like the lamb-and-lemon tagine, bomb.
A brik is a Tunisian pastry that wraps a savory stuffing in uncountable layers of flaky dough that's like a thicker version of filo. The most common filling marries potatoes with canned tuna and tops them with a raw egg, which becomes only partly cooked as the pastry is fried. Bite into it and yellow oozes out. Nevertheless, briks are delicious, and you can crawl from one end of town to the other and find no more than two or three examples. The best is at EPICES DU TRAITEUR, a bistro that... More »
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