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There are more than 40 locations of this izakaya-style restaurant in Japan; it¹s too bad not more of them have made their way to the United States. Executive chef Koji Nakan cooks some of the most refined Japanese food in the city, taking humble izakaya dishes and turning them into something you won¹t mind shelling out serious cash for. The freshly made scooped tofu, delightfully rich and creamy, will erase all your bad memories of the rubbery supermarket stuff. Although you can order a la carte, the two seven-course kaiseki menus are a good way to experience the whole menu, including standout dishes like the miso-marinated black cod, uni egg custard and Japanese strip loin with truffle butter. Choose from the encyclopedic sake menu or opt for the shochu or one of the bottles from the international wine list. The cavernous dining room has an air of cool serenity to it, with gray stone walls, slick Japanese pine and plenty of space between tables.
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When reflecting back at my first En JP Brasserie experience, the word which comes to mind is 'surprising'. I was first shocked by the quality of the sushi which was very fresh and I had to order more after 'testing the waters' as I often do. The second shocker of the evening was how much food comes with the set meal. Holy moly! We were both stuffed and in fact, it's probably the only time I would say it was too much food for a Prix fixe. The final shock of the evening came when the bill arrived. I think it was around $280 for 2 people. I don't mind spending when I expect it, but in this case, things add up fast. I will definitely eat there again and be a little more conservative with the supplemental prix fixe menu ordering which I tend to do at most restaurants.
One of the owners was born in Japan, the other in America, and they've collaborated to produce the crispy fried chicken at EN Japanese Brasserie. Ever since Yanks occupied the vanquished empire--and introduced fried chicken and mayonnaise, among other American specialties--the Japanese have been studying how to make the best fried chicken. Employing a mild soy marinade, and not neglecting dark meat or sinew, the cooks at EN take amorphous small pieces of chicken, bread them... More »
Actually, we secretly hoped the most recent hot-dog-eating contest at Nathan's in Coney Island would be his last meal, at which he gave up the mustard belt to somebody with the hilarious name of Joey Chestnut, matching him dog-for-dog up to 66, then throwing three of the weenies up onto his shirt! His last meal will be the diametrical opposite of a squirming pile of hot dogs: a steaming bowl of freshly made tofu at En Japanese Brasserie, which comes immersed in its own silky fluids and is a... More »
In Los Angeles, the most robust segment of the Japanese dining scene is the izakaya--a pub that serves snacks. Our own En Japanese Brasserie is a prime example. Thrill to the homemade bean curd served in a box, bobbing in soy milk that will astonish you with its savor, and aji sashimi--a whole fish flayed into sashimi for your enjoyment. Afterwards, the bones and leftovers are removed from the table, flash fried, then returned to be eaten--enjoy their crispy munificence. The... More »
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