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I can't think of a better way to spend a couple of hours on a Sunday than meeting friends here for dim sum. Pace it out, so you won't risk missing the little short ribs in a glorious black-bean sauce, or any of the exquisite and varied steamed dumplings, so transparent you can easily read the contents: shrimp and greens, chicken and mushrooms. My favorite is a bird's-nest-soup dumpling the size of a small bowl; break into it with your spoon, and you'll find a broth so concentrated it tastes as if 10 chickens have been boiled down to get one cupful of soup. But dinners are pretty fine too: If you're lucky, the Dungeness crab steamed with noodles and about half a ton of fresh garlic will be on the menu.
QUESTION: A few months ago, you mentioned a source for great merguez sausage. But what I’ve been looking for is boudin noir, the black stuff, the real ooze. Because lately, I’ve been in the mood for a little type-O negative, if you know what I... More »