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Chef Seth Caswell proves that rustic cuisine doesn't have to mean simple. Dishes like grass-fed beef Bolognese with pork and organic orecchiette ($14) and gathered mushroom tart with Cypress Grove goat cheese, leeks, spinach, and pears ($14) are less precious than the more refined cuisine at Tilth, but the seasonally inspired, locally derived menu at Emmer & Rye is conceptually spot-on and tasty as hell. The old Victorian house that Julia's once called home is a perfect stage for upscale farmhouse dining. Small and large plates come in half or whole portions, which makes it easy to sample a bunch of items without breaking the bank. Make sure to save room for cheesecake-it's Caswell's grandmother's recipe and it's garnished with fresh berries.
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