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Both Todd English and Ian Chalermkittichai have proven themselves talented in the kitchen. Unfortunately, their newest joint effort doesn't live up to either of their earlier hot spots. Instead, Ember Room succumbs to the pitfalls of pan-Asian takeout-plates arrive battered by sweetness and abandoned by spice. To be fair, the borders of mediocrity don't confine every offering. Enjoyable dishes include paper-thin slivers of seasoned beef tongue and duck confit in a red-curry-sauce bath. But skip over the goulash sliders, which reflect perfectly what's up here: a trendy concept, muddied by bizarre ingredient pairings, inauthentic recipes, and an apparent identity crisis.
Todd English, the celebrity chef and restaurateur with a publicly beleaguered love life, gained infamy in recent years for his issues with commitment. And it's hard not to wonder if his "love 'em and leave 'em" MO will plague his professional... More »
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