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The bagels are laboriously fashioned by hand. A gigantic oven with visible flames bakes Eltana's bagels to a char, and the steaming wood makes the spacious, high-ceilinged cafe smell like a sauna. Hard and tiny, these are known as Montreal bagels. But it's the motion in the ocean that counts, and Eltana's bagels go down swimmingly, with a generous amount of cream cheese heaped on.
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