We're never quite sure which of the women behind the counter is Elsa. What is certain, though, is that she's queen of the chicharrones, twice-cooked pork ribs that alternate layers of crisp skin, rich fat, and tantalizingly fibrous meat. Your only other choice at this new carryout-which has a few counter seats if you just can't wait to gnaw on a couple of ribs-is longaniza, a thin oregano-laced sausage. Sides include boiled plantains and yuca, fried white sweet potato, and pink pickled onion. Oh, and this being a Dominican joint, there's also an assortment of plastic-wrapped cassava breads.