Description
The Pacific Heights incarnation of Elizabeth Falkner's name-making restaurant is a bit disjointed: the pastry shop warring with the sit-down restaurant, the minimalist decor at odds with the sophisticated whimsy of Falkner's desserts. Chef Amy Glaze's menus incorporate both tweaked classics (a wonderfully deconstructed beef stroganoff, Chinese chicken salad) and lighter, slightly more cerebral fare (beet-asparagus terrine, beet salad with beef heart) that falls flat as often as it succeeds. Falkner's desserts, though, are as wonderful as ever. Sweets such as her butterscotch-miso mousse and her love letter (raspberry-rose-black pepper cake) are a collage of flavors clipped from dozens of cuisines, with an eye out for the new.
