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Until a local website praised its carne asada, El Parian was best known for its birria, Guadalajara-style roasted goat in broth, and when you sat down at one of the well-battered tables, the waitress didn't offer you a menu, she asked whether you were having a full order or were only hungry enough for a half. El Parian's birria may be the single best regional Mexican dish in Los Angeles. But those carne asada tacos have been pulling a crowd of people less interested in goat than in the sweet, meaty, garlicky charbroiled steak. And the taco people may be right - the meat is well blackened and peppered with delicious pockets of liquified fat. Will I order the carne asada taco the next time around? Of course not. But it's good to know it's there.
Our 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants issue came out last week, and we're highlighting a few categories drawing from the list. Today: Mexican restaurants. This isn't every single Mexican spot on the list... More »
Tucked away in plain sight on Pico near Union, El Parian is the sort of place you probably won't notice on your way to a Clippers game or during your attempt to circumnavigate the 10 freeway during rush hour. Which makes this restaurant perfect... More »
At this point in my life, I could no more change my allegiance to El Parian than I could my blind devotion to the Lakers. Because I've been coming here since the early days of Showtime, long enough to remember when the waitresses asked not if you... More »
Dear Mr. Gold: Have you published a list of the 10 best places for L.A. street food and/or "dives"? I'd like to tour them on bicycle, so if they are concentrated in one area, that would be best — and hopefully a slightly more urban area like... More »
If you have spent much time in South and Southeast L.A., around the boulevards and crabbed side streets that are home to much of the great northward flow, you may have come to believe that practically everything worth doing or eating originated... More »
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