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Not surprisingly, White Center's El Paisano Rosticeria Y Cocina, which is owned by the butcher shop two doors down, specializes in meat. Its Mexican-style roast chickens vary from crackling-skinned to dry, depending on how long they've spent out of the oven and under the heat lights. Uniformly fantastic: tacos filled with moist and porky carnitas, creamy octopus served in a tomato-based coctel campechana, and goat birria stewed so long that sheer lethargy keeps it from disintegrating. Given the portion size, a small plate should be all you need.
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