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At El Caserio, one of the few Ecuadoran kitchens in Los Angeles, you spoon the incendiary chile sauce aji over puffy white-cheese empanadas, the mashed-potato pancakes called llapingachos, or fresh-corn humitas, over fried green plantains or an already spicy goat stew. If you are of a mind to, you can also use the aji to spice up the penne alla vodka, spaghetti with pesto or any of the other Italian pastas that make up a huge chunk of the menu here. To wash it down, there's Chianti, Ecuadoran beer or the delicious, peculiar juice of the Andean mountain blackberry mora, which tastes like new wine.
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