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Of all the overdone and overpriced Punjabi dining rooms that line Broadway on the Upper West, this is the one that most surpasses the genre, even though it's not quite on Broadway. Starting with the free papadams (and especially, the three fresh-tasting chutneys), the menu explores new territory, including a sumptuous chick pea pindi (a Parsi recipe featuring pomegranate) and a tasty fish masala from the western Konkan Coast of India featuring kokum pulp. Too bad the restaurant uses cod rather than a more sustainable fish. Breads are another strong point, including a novel, Italian-leaning rosemary nan.
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