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Until its Farmers Market flagship closed, Du-par's was the last of Southern California's quality-obsessed coffee shop chains. Then the chain was sold - to W.W. "Biff" Naylor, whose father founded the Tiny Naylor's chain 80 years ago. Biff installed as chef his daughter Jennifer Naylor, a Wolfgang Puck protégée, and longtime customers who lived and died for Du-par's French toast started contemplating the Grand Slam Breakfast at Denny's. Is the French toast the same? It is not - it's more of the egg-dipped-and-fried school than of the buttery, puddingy variety I had always insisted was the best in town. But to everyone's surprise, Jennifer Naylor's Du-par's is neither a chefly interpretation of a coffee shop, like BLD, nor a parlor of seven-sprout omelets and tofu scrambles. It is, more or less, Du-par's, but with a killer hash browns recipe, very decent bacon from Daily's, and all the tuna melts, Monte Cristos, tri-tip sandwiches and liver-and-onions any coffee-shop aficionado could possibly want. Also at 12036 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 766-4437.
If there is a city where compiling a list of the 10 Best Late-Night Eats is more impossible than L.A., remind us never to apply for a job there. Ever. Yet this city's geographic restaurant breadth, cu... More »
In Los Angeles, you can find French toast of every description: diner French toast made with wheat bread and a smear of yolk, upscale French toast made with stale croissants, pillowy French toast made with thick-sliced challah bread, Italian... More »
Until its Farmers Market flagship closed a couple of years ago, Du-par’s was the last of Southern California’s quality-obsessed coffee shop chains, vendors of Midwestern-style coffee, vivid-yellow chicken pot pies and date-nut bread smeared with... More »
The trick to preserving any culinary landmark is to remain relevant (steel-cut oatmeal) while staying true to your past (corned beef hash). It's a balance that Du-Par's has managed exceptionally well (French toast) at its original Farmers Market location, where regulars still can order a short stack at 2 a.m. and finish off with a slice of cherry pie. Or, should you prefer to venture into Du-Par's updated hash brown realm -- a recipe updated after diner ownership passed into new... More »
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