Description
After multiple fizzled relationships with chefs, starting in 1998, Donatella Arpaia has finally seized the reins herself--and the food is fantastic. This is not just a Naples-style pizzeria, but a full-blown Italian restaurant, with the scope of the menu similar to what you might find in an Italian roadside osteria. The secret emphasis is on Sicilian fare, including a stunning pasta con sarde --in this case matching a thick spaghetti with fresh sardines and bread crumbs. The pizzas, too, are wonderful, and the very short list includes the usual margherita and marinara--both fine--though our fave is the diavolo, featuring spicy salami and chile oil.
