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The former Cesare's Wine Bar's new name, Domacin (pronounced DOME-ah-chin), is a Serbian term for a congenial host, and it may be the Stillwater restaurant's most noticeable change--and that's probably a good thing. The cute, boxy dining room has a long bar, wide rows of windows, and a cozy cellar room lined with wine racks that feels like dining inside an oversized barrel. Domacin may have the largest restaurant wine selection in the area, with a 400-plus-bottle list that highlights many Italian producers. And as thanks for drinking from the collection's best, guests autograph the empty bottle for permanent display. For noshing, snack-size items range from cheese plates and mini-burgers to crostini and personal pizzas, but there are also more substantial pasta, meat, and fish entrees. Most are well-executed, but they sometimes seem spendy for a place where a guy might show up in a Cabela's cap.
The dreams of the domestically minded tend to be fairly simple: An Ikea within driving distance, a really good wine bar--no, not like the kind we had two years ago. A really, really good wine bar. Like, well, like brand new, dream-fulfilling Cesaré's, a place where the wine selection goes into hundreds and hundreds of bottlings, covering wine-head rarities, collector jaw-droppers, and budget gems from around the world. Where the food is carefully rendered slow food, and where you can... More »
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