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If you are looking for a proper representation of hellfire, the grill at Dino’s Chicken and Burgers may be as close as you will get, a smoke-belching landscape of fire and ashes, with stacks of chickens ready to be flipped into the blaze like so many unrepentant sinners. A dingy burger stand in the Byzantine-Latino Quarter still owned by founder Demetrios Pantazis, Dino’s is as perpetually crowded as Pink’s after the bars close. The half-chicken plates cost only $5 a pop, including fries and tortillas; steak platters with rice, beans and salad run maybe a buck more. (In practice, nobody orders the burger.) And the best part of the meal may be the dense stratum of french fries underneath the chickens, saturated with the greasy, capsaicin-rich juices of the bird. It may take a week to scrape the residue out from under your fingernails, but it will be worth the crimson shame.
The chicken is good, but it's the fries that make this place well worth busting your gut. Those potato sticks are dripping in goodness. Don't bother wiping your hands and face till you're completely done. You're just gonna get greasy all over again.
If you are looking for a proper representation of hellfire, the grill at Dino’s Burgers may be as close as you will get, a sulfurous, smoke-belching landscape of fire and ashes, sputtering gouts of orange flame, and stacks of chickens, dyed red... More »
Q: A friend told me about a joint that serves grilled split chickens with a red marinade on top of French fries, on the north side of the street toward downtown. Not Pollo a la Brasa. Any idea what and where it is? —Jeff Fischer A: My first... More »
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