Commerce City is hardly a restaurant utopia, and Gala Gardens isn't exactly the first joint that floats into your head when you're lusting after a brick of beef. But it should be, because the steaks -- of which there are several, including a hefty 25-ounce porterhouse, a 22-ounce T-bone, a couple of New York strips and a club steak -- are juicy, full of flavor and dirt cheap. Especially since they're served with a throwback relish tray, a cup of scratchmade soup, salad, and either rice pilaf, potatoes -- mashed, baked or fried -- or steamed vegetables. The porterhouse is the most expensive steak on the board, ringing in at just under $24, but the hospitality, which is ample, is free. And the beers -- you don't drink wine at a place like this -- are practically free.