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Staten Island's favorite purveyor of Italian food is a rough hangout where the dining room seems like an afterthought to the capacious barroom. The Staten Island-style pizzas are fab, with a crust thicker than usual, carefully browned but never charred, and so is the scungilli salad, one of the city's foremost conch showcases.
When the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge opened its gates to Italian-American immigrants from Brooklyn, the Staten Island style of pizza was born. How to describe it? The crust is midway between a Neapolitan and a Sicilian pie in thickness, and it's browned but not blackened in a conventional oven, which is the case at Denino's Pizzeria and Tavern--Staten Island's most famous pizzeria. The toppings tend toward seafood, reminding you that Staten really is an island. But the pizza is not the... More »
Down in Margaritaville, folks like to be called "conches." Accordingly, we'll feed old Jimmy a final repast of scungilli salad at Staten Island's beloved Denino's Pizzeria and Tavern. Served cold and dressed with a piquant vinaigrette, the salad is mainly pink swatches of conch interspersed with chopped celery and onions. And he'll moisten his warbling lips with--what else?--a margarita from the bar up front. More »
Before the Verrazano Narrows Bridge united Brooklyn and Staten Island, the island's pizza bakers labored in isolation, generating a unique type of pie with a crust somewhere between Neapolitan and Sicilian. Cooked at a lower temperature, the thicker crust can be loaded with a lusher dose of ingredients. The best example of this sort of pie is found at DENINO'S, a fortress of a place with a prodigious barroom attached. Though the dining room is bare-bones, it has a retrograde charm that... More »
Good pizza need to cleen place better
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