Description
L.A. is going through its brasserie moment, and an alarming percentage of the high-profile restaurants that have opened in the last year or so have goose fat running through their veins. It has never been easier to find steak frites, onion soup or flagons of Muscadet. Delphine, the restaurant in the newest W Hotel in Hollywood, took a run at its competitors by actually hiring a chef, Sascha Lyon, who helped to open Balthazar and was chef at its sister brasserie, Pastis. He seems right at home in the airy, Riviera-themed restaurant, with its massive windows and the sun-bleached blue tile that feels straight out of Cannes. Delphine has among the most assured brasserie cooking in town: mussels steamed in a Le Creuset pot with white wine and slivered fennel that had been tossed with Pernod; Caesar salad with bacon; killer fries; and onion soup blanketed with bubbling Gruyère.
