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The Marina branch of the Beretta-Starbelly chain specializes in Roman-style pies and craft beers. Looking like a junior high cafeteria designed by Dolce and Gabbana, the room is shiny, orange-accented, and filled with long wood tables and square, backless stools. There's an inverse relation between the size of the crowd and the quality of the pizzas, but when it's done right, a Delarosa pie comes out airy and smoke-tinged. A cicerone-curated list of draft beers and bottles ranges from kölsch to stout, with a marked preference for lesser-hopped, crisp varieties that pair well with food.
The after-dinner drink is one of those old world traditions that Americans, even the most culinary obsessed, never seemed to have embraced. Our lack of interest in eau de vie, grappa, and aquavit, tho... More »
Delarosa, sister restaurant to Beretta and Starbelly, is more popular for its dinner and cocktail scene than for brunch, but the Marina restaurant proves it can deliver any time of day. Long, picnic-s... More »
A weekly listing of new restaurants around town. To recommend a spot, e-mail fresheats. Baker and Banker: 1701 Octavia (at Bush), 321-2500, www.bakerandbanker.com. Pacific Heights. New American. Delarosa: 2175 Chestnut (at Pierce), 673-7100,... More »
Every California brewmaster these days seems to want to be a Belgian monk -- one who still rocks out to Megadeth and rides to Mass on his hog. We're still scarred from some of the saccharine, piercingly bitter hop-heavy Belgian-style dubbels and tripels we've tasted. But North Coast's Le Merle, a Fort Bragg beer that makes it onto most of the cult beer lists in town, is the perfect fusion between American and Belgian brewing traditions. A saison-style beer, the Le Merle begins like a... More »
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