Description
This Batali spawn outdoes Babbo in several significant ways. In size, certainly, though the effect of the hulking space is to increase the serenity level rather than reduce it. As a piano tinkled in the background, we sprawled in our seats -- surrounded by wealthy Westchester parents taking their college kids out to dinner -- and enjoyed a perfect Neapolitan seafood salad, an unfried and unmemorable artichoke appetizer, a stunning dish of hand-rolled pici pasta accented with black truffles as good as any we'd had in Italy, lamb done three ways (chop, roulade, meatballs), and, best of all, a crisp-skinned duck breast stuffed with herbs, porchetta-style.
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