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The 15-item menu of small plates touches on the tropes of molecular gastronomy. Three or four make a meal. There's an egg cooked at 147 degrees (the temperature at which albumen coagulates), a squid body stuffed with lentils and chorizo, and a savory mussel broth topped with celery foam immersing a fried artichoke and a Kumamoto oyster. The wine list contains several beguiling by-the-glass choices at its lower end, and watching the cooks as you sit at the counter is part of the fun.
America's favorite comic poet once wrote, "Celery, raw, develops the jaw," which prompts us to play a little trick on him. We'll invite him to Degustation, where one of chef Wesley Genovart's signature dishes is a fried artichoke and a kumamoto oyster deposited in mussel broth topped with raw-celery foam. Ha, ha--Oggie won't get much crunch out of that! We'll follow that up with a deconstructed roast-beef sandwich at this enclave of molecular gastronomy. More »
We're not talking about the shaggy beast, but about East 5th Street impresarios and local dandies Grace and Jack Lamb, who are often to be seen prowling the neighborhood. Their latest mini-restaurant features mini-dishes, making Degustation one of their greatest successes. The modest choice of 15 or so includes many novel creations in a scientific vein--including an egg poached at 147 degrees, which leaves the yolk fluid and turns the white into jelly, and a mussel broth with a fried... More »
Jack and Grace Lamb are the acknowledged king and queen of micro-dining. While other restaurateurs dream of birthing behemoth restaurants of two or three hundred seats apiece, the Lambs continue to churn out 16-seat spaces in an empire centered... More »
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