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Proof that Times Square and decent food are not strictly antithetical, this third project of the city's foremost French chef, Daniel Boulud, is more playful than the other two, but nearly as expensive. The opulent "burger" has already been extensively lauded, but our favorite dish is boeuf en gelée, a cocktail glass of cold beef chunks lubricated with natural jelly and topped with horseradish foam. Spoon it on the slices of toast provided. We also dug a pink melon soup given a salty twist with shreds of duck prosciutto, and especially a rhubarb-almond cake served with a restrained rhubarb ice cream. The menu changes seasonally, so go to www.danielnyc.com for available dishes.
It used to be that Patroon served the most expensive burger in town, and at $23, it failed to justify the price. Now along comes Daniel Boulud, who applies his playful artistic sensibilities to America's favorite meal. With a well-browned exterior, and a rare interior of exemplary beef, the burger ($28) at DB BISTRO is further stuffed with foie gras and shredded short ribs. Hitting this mother lode is like winning the lottery. More »
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