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Covered in elaborate murals, Darbar is the kind of restaurant you'd assume specializes in chicken tikka masala. And it does -- but the careful diner will have a much better meal by ordering the Punjabi and Pakistani dishes: Biriyanis thrumming with spices. Ground beef and lamb kebabs that practically crackle with cardamom and garlic. Nihari beef melting off the bone, chicken karahi vibrating with garlic and ginger, and achar gosht, a pickle-intensified goat curry. The naan's some of the best in town, too. Lunch offers a buffet and kabob wraps.
San Francisco is blessed with so many Indian hole-in-the-wall dives -- some now turning into minichains, each with its own partisans -- that Darbar can get lost in the shuffle, and it shouldn't. The halal kitchen turns out tasty dishes at excellent prices (the top price is for tandoori lamb chops, $9.99 for four or five plump chops and a pile of onions; most other dishes are $5.99 or $6.99). The standard curries (saag, biryani, gosht, vindaloo) are all here in several forms (beef,... More »
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