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Not unlike the meandering Danube River itself, the peripatetic menu at Bellevue's Danube Bistro starts in the Czech Republic (svickova), then passes through Hungary (goulash), Austria (Wiener schnitzel), and San Francisco (cioppino) before dissolving into the vast waters of "Continental cuisine." The restaurant's two best dishes are the roast pork with sauerkraut and the svickova, marinated beef with a vegetable cream sauce, both served with soft white bread dumplings that are to Wonder bread what the eclair is to the Twinkie. It's such a homey, friendly, modest bistro that the four-star check will come as a shock. Pray for a market correction.
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