Daniel's Broiler requires a clientele that's notoriously unimaginative—financiers in business suits, tourists keen to eat red meat in Seattle, and retirees drawn by reliable valet parking—to flex their imaginations. The Lake Union restaurant looks the part of a classic steakhouse, from the private wine cabinets to raw beef display case, but so much here doesn't work. Guests fond of the dockside view are forced to imagine the sourdough rolls aren't rock hard, the French onion soup isn't greasy and the Caesar salad isn't overloaded with garlic. But the service is kind, if corny (a middle-aged busser named Ricardo smilingly offered "more tequila?" when he refilled our water glasses.) And the steaks, thick with mesquite smoke, would be considered decent at half the price.
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