Danger Dawgs’ genius is in their austerity toward bacon-wrapped hot dogs. Sure, Hernandez piles on the sauteed onions, bell peppers, and (if you ask) jalapeños, but she does it within the confines of a regular, sweet, toasted hot dog bun and uses a regular-sized frank: no Dirk Diggler-esque wieners here. Yes, the fatty, crispy bacon wraps around said frank like the snakes around a caduceus—but the hot dog is made from turkey, a meat I’ve never cared for but adore the way Hernandez prepares it: instead of a porcine overload, the turkey’s slight sweetness gets enlivened by the bacon seeping into and clinging onto the hot dog. And while Hernandez squirts on judicious amounts of ketchup, mayo, and mustard for the bacon-wrapped hot dog’s signature tartness, her coup de grace is Sriracha.
Kathy Hernandez is a slight woman, the kind of gal you figure sits behind a desk for a living and spends weekends getting pedicures. Yet she spends most weekend late nights in Costa Mesa, lugging a cart twice her size by herself—and that's just... More »