"You can always judge the quality of a cook or restaurant by roast chicken," Julia Child once wrote. I'm not sure if she was the first to utter those words, but they have been hers ever since.
They're words I happen to believe in. I've devoted too much time to roasting birds, and would roast more if my favorite technique, borrowed from Michel Richard, a popular French chef in...
Stephan Pyles wants your cheap ass to feel fancy. That must be why he opened Samar in the middle of downtown, put a buncha hookahs out front, hired hosts in suits who insist on opening the door for you and did a million other things so that when you look at this place you say, "Thas expensive." But then he's only charging five dollars per tapas plate. For nine bucks, you get two...
Back in the spring of 2001, I sat with a group of friends in the dining room of Cuba Libra. Just about a year ago, I found myself at almost the same table, looking at a space less crowded but otherwise barely altered. Sometimes it seems nothing much has changed over the past 10 years.
Yes, there was a rollercoaster ride from boom to recession, with everything that happened in...
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