Dallas Fish Market

Dallas Fish Market chef Randy Morgan says his goal of primacy is to align food with décor, in this case a modern white glass and metal room with repeating geometrical shapes cleansed into near sterility. Thus Morgan, who resuscitated the shuttered Russian Tea Room in New York, works his food into these cues, sometimes by shaping, sometimes by deconstructing and reformulating. His ceviche reflects this mindset, if only subtlety. It’s an invigorating mound of precisely minced Hawaiian red snapper interlaced with bits of mango and jalapeño that issues bursts of cumin. Yet it’s exquisitely controlled. Morgan has teased out a workable juice formula—roughly 60 percent lime with 40 percent orange—to flash cook the fish into opacity while moderating the lime intensity as it annuls the orange sweetness and preserves natural fish flavors and textures—flavors balanced with the precision of the mincing. Getting geometry down to nitty-gritty never tasted so good.

• Cuisine(s): Japanese, Seafood, Steakhouse

  Hours: Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, Mon-Thu 5pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-11pm

  Price: $$$, $$$$

  Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards

• Attire: Business Casual

  Features: Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Takeout, Private Party, Catering, Banquet Facilities, Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Business Dining

  Serving: Dinner, Lunch

  Alcohol: Full bar

• Reservations: Accepted, Recommended

  Parking: Meters, Valet