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You can get channa masala and Kashmiri naan at 20 places in Seattle, but for a rare taste of Keralan dishes like fried cassava with fish in a coconut-milk curry, you'll have to drive to this all-pink strip-mall restaurant in Bellevue. Look over the "specialties" and "combos" sections of the menu, where you'll find a high concentration of southern Indian fare: thin dosas (crepes) spread with a toasted-chile paste and stuffed with potatoes and lentils, a brick-red goat curry whose impact is almost a body rush, chicken sukkah stir-fried with spices and curry leaves. Curry Leaf doesn't serve thalis, so if you want to make up a complete South Indian dinner, come for that most American of authentic Indian meals: the lunch buffet.
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