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Tom Douglas—who's done the pizza thing at Serious Pie and perfected pretzels for Brave Horse Tavern—rolls out his pasta shtick for Cuoco, an upscale Italian restaurant that trusts its patrons won't be scared off by duck gizzards or uneasy with an all-Italian wine list. Many of the pastas are stupendous, but the portions and prices are wildly out of whack. Paying for bread is a mild inconvenience when it's baked so masterfully, but it's harder to justify paying $14 for a plate of a dozen puny gnocchi.
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