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Don't you dare call them Barbadians! Former residents of this gentile Caribbean island prefer to be called Bajans, and Culpeppers is one of their most commodious outposts. The national dish of okra-flecked porridge called coo-coo plus steamed flying fish (sometimes they jump right into the boat!) is always available--unless it's not, when kingfish is substituted. Other delightful dishes include small sandwiches called cutters, pan-Caribbean rotis, and the usual nexus of stewed and... More »
The Bajan community behaves like one big family, and Culpepper's is their clubhouse, where you--though probably not born in Barbados--will be made very welcome, too. The pastries illustrate the British heritage of the island, but the rest of the food proudly shows its African roots. Check out cou-cou, a cornmeal-and-okra porridge usually eaten with a steamed or fried flying fish. More »
The apex of Barbadian cooking is cou-cou - a cornmeal porridge laced with okra for extra slipperiness. Get it with flying fish at Crown Heights old-timer Culpepper's, where you can chase it with the pastry called "lead pipe."
Sporting an electric-blue awning, Culpepper's is a brand-new Bajan café a few blocks south of Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn's Prospect-Lefferts Gardens, home to Haitians, Jamaicans, Dominicans, Trinidadians, and Barbadians, who call themselves... More »
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