The silver lining to the Katrina storm cloud has come in the form of Crustaceans. Relax; we're not talking about shrimp and crabs raining from the sky--we mean the restaurant next to The Green Room that serves the little guys in authentic Cajun style. A spacious, leafy courtyard in the back is a better seating option than the comfortable but humdrum interior, and there are still kinks to be worked out in the service. Similarly, the food is nothing fancy, mostly Cajun standards like gumbo, shrimp creole and crawfish étouffée, but they're done so well that it's clear New Orleans' loss of chef Ronald Honoré is Dallas' impressive gain.
Cajun used to mean exotic. Twenty-five years ago, before Chef Paul Prudhomme foisted his blackened redfish on gustatory history--giving lesser cooks license to char stuff to an ebony crisp and call it Southern cuisine--we could find really fine... More »
Dallas restaurants have plunged deeply into the effort to ease the anguish caused by Katrina. Behold Project Lagniappe (Lagniappe is a Creole expression for an unexpected gift). In large part spearheaded by Whit Meyers of the Entertainment... More »
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