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Good vegetarian restaurants such as these are hard to find. Who needs beef, when you can have a menu of soul food (with Asian accents) that includes meat loaf, deftly made of lentil, mashed potatoes, and crab cakes that are so reminiscent of the real thing that you won't even notice the difference. The white-walled, warmly lit space has a grand, crescent-moon-style bar by the entrance, where patrons can focus on sipping from a respectable selection of organic and biodynamic wines. Plus, a friendly waitstaff stand by, sure to help out with suggestions for those who are not sure where to begin.
Counter styles itself as organic and vegetarian, but brilliantly avoids the stereotypes associated with both. Rather than being dense and dank and dopey with oat groats, the food is light and flavorful, taking its cue from various European and Mediterranean cuisines. The potato-almond gnocchi kissed with butter and sage is the best gnocchi I've had all year, while a novel terrine of lentils and brown rice led me to reconsider the utility of both of those earthy and difficult-to-manage... More »
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