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It might not be one of the seven wonders of the world, but it sure ranks as one of the seven design wonders of Minnesota. The word breathtaking doesn't even do justice to this Charles-and-Ray-Eames-meet-the-Matrix marvel of a dining room, where elements of classic Modernism are interpreted through natural, elemental materials. The kitchen uses top-shelf ingredients (like meats and cheeses culled from the best farms in the country, including products from some of the best Minnesota farmers). By the time you're swooning over your plate at Cosmos, you will have mastered at least one of the mysteries of the cosmos-namely, where the heck the place is. (Up on the fourth floor of the Graves 601 Minneapolis, on First Avenue, accessible only through the hotel lobby.)
We may never tire of ordering the Cosmos Chocolate Globe, a fixture on the Graves Hotel restaurant's menu since its earliest days. Not only is it a stunning dessert, it's also a piece of performance art. The server brings an austere chocolate sphere to the table, then douses it with warm chocolate sauce, which melts the globe's hollow shell to reveal a frozen core of cherry sorbet and bits of brandied cherry. The display is as exciting as watching a shooting star--except you can choose... More »
Making dinner plans for four to six people, and somebody else is picking up the tab? Book the chef's table at Cosmos in the Graves Hotel, which serves the most elaborate blowout in town. The kitchen charges an eye-popping $200 per person for nine wine-paired courses, which means, essentially, they spare no expense. If you've experienced some of the delights from Cosmos's regular menu--Wagyu beef shipped straight from Japan, Maine crab cakes with caviar, lobster salad topped with vanilla... More »
At Restaurant Levain and Auriga, pastry chef Khanh Tran developed a reputation for her creative contradictions, mixing crisp and creamy textures, or pairing savory flavors with sweet. Now that she's at Cosmos, the ultra-mod room seems an appropriate backdrop for her stunning, sculpture-like works. She might be serving a chocolate fig tart with smoked hot chocolate and white-pepper ice cream. Or a tiny tumbler of avocado custard, topped with a layer of lemon-thyme-basil gel and a dollop of... More »
Service has been in free fall in Minnesota over the last several years as the heavy-hitter, big-ticket restaurants of yore lost their luster, and their professional staffs were absorbed into the general population of the clueless. Decor hasn't had much to boast of either, as nouveau riche Miami-Italian glitz passed more and more for classy. Food, food was certainly on an uptick, as interested, interesting chefs achieved fascinating heights to the applause of eager audiences. The only problem... More »
After thinking and thinking and thinking about it, we have concluded that the main problem with service in this town is a blind-man-and-the-elephant one. Follow along: Servers are raised in TV rooms in various suburbs and small towns, going out once in a great while to restaurants they don't pay much attention to. Then they come to the big city, get the big tips cash job they've always wanted, and just make it up as they go along, cobbling together their ideas of what might be done with... More »
At Restaurant Levain and Auriga, pastry chef Khanh Tran developed a reputation for her creative contradictions, mixing crisp and creamy textures, or pairing savory flavors with sweet. Now that she's at Cosmos, the ultra-mod room seems an appropriate backdrop for her stunning, sculpture-like works. She might be serving a chocolate fig tart with smoked hot chocolate and white-pepper ice cream. Or a tiny tumbler of avocado custard, topped with a layer of lemon-thyme-basil gel and a dollop of buttermilk sorbet—sure, it sounds like a crazy concoction, but it tastes as pleasant as a sunny pasture. Of course, you can always stick with the classic Chocolate Globe, which is served on an edible pedestal. When it hits the table, the server pours warm chocolate sauce on top and the shell melts away to reveal brandied cherries and a cherry sorbet core. It's the kind of performance that's a pleasure to watch—and even better to eat.
Cosmos Graves 601 Hotel 601 First Avenue N., Minneapolis 612.677.1100 www.cosmosrestaurant.com jP American Bistro 2937 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis 612.824.9300 www.jpamericanbistro.com It was one of those winter days in Minnesota that's as gray... More »
Remember the Mad, Mad Mexican, East Lake Street purveyor of remarkably thin enchiladas and other questionable Southwestern fare? Of course you do, because for years and years it was virtually the only middle-of-the-night alternative to Perkins,... More »
Cosmos Le Meridien Minneapolis 601 First Ave. N., Minneapolis 612.677.1100 Me, I have experienced the miracle of the cosmos, here and there. One time it was when I stood in Giotto's Arena Chapel, with the blue plaster and gold stars above... More »
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