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It's hard to describe Copper Gate without sounding like a surrealist letch. So here goes: Viking-ship bar with naked-lady "sail" and Swedish menu. Once you've finished looking at all the velvet paintings of nudies and inspected the men's bathroom, you can return to the bar for glasses of aquavit-the housemade version with fennel, saffron, and horseradish is quite good-and Swedish eats. The kitchen's a little inconsistent, but generally reliable when it comes to pickled fish, dill-dusted fries, gravlax and Swedish meatballs. European ciders and beers are also available.
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