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As its name hints, Conde is primarily a bakery, and most of its sales comes from cakes for special occasions-birthdays, weddings, quinceañeras, all blandly American-and traditional pan dulce. But this is also the county's only true Yucatán-style restaurant, with a steady customer stream demanding dishes such as vaporaditos (small, mushy tamales) and cochinita pibil, pork cooked in citrus until it's as tender as fat.
The emptying of Mexico is almost complete, and Orange County is for the better. The past couple of years have seen these expats introduce regional Mexican cuisine to our diet—fried Cornish game hens from Puebla, powerful Sinaloan ceviches,... More »
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