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Miami New Times
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Portuguese cuisine is lusty, soulful, rib-sticking fare in which cod - the salted, dried kind called bacalhau - is God. In the wrong hands it can be tough, fishy-tasting stuff. Luckily Coimbra has a good hand with this Portuguese staple and more than a dozen dishes to prove it. Cod fritters are light, crisp, and greaseless; cod sautéed with onions, garlic, potatoes, and hard-cooked egg is satisfying right down to your toenails. Porky chorizo are plump and tasty, and a combo of tender chunks of pork with fat little in-shell clams is downright delicious. Scrape the Hershey's-like sauce off a wedge of cheesecake-dense flan and it's pretty good too.
It would be wrong to say Portuguese cuisine rests solely on its treatment of salt cod, or bacalhau, but it's hard not to admire the culinary alchemy that transforms something resembling salted drywall into one of the tastiest things you can put in your mouth. Which is one reason it's hard not to admire Coimbra, where a clientele ranging from young couples to extended families chows down on airy, crisp salt cod fritters (85 cents each) and lusty sautées of the star protein with potatoes, olives, hard-cooked eggs, and lots of good, fruity olive oil ($15.95). There's plenty more to like too, and it would be wrong if you didn't check it all out.
It would be wrong to say Portuguese cuisine rests solely on its treatment of salt cod, or bacalhau, but it's hard not to admire the culinary alchemy that transforms something resembling salted drywall into one of the tastiest things you can put in your mouth. Which is one reason it's hard not to admire Coimbra, where a clientele ranging from young couples to extended families chows down on airy, crisp salt cod fritters (85 cents each) and lusty sautées of the star protein with... More »
It seems Portugal has never quite gotten out of the shadow of its bigger, more renowned, more influential Spanish neighbor. Think Sonoma to Napa, St. Paul to Minneapolis, Shrub to Darth Cheney. It's too bad, really, because Portugal is a... More »
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