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A Vietnamese-Cajun meal at SJ Crawfish involves a cluster of cold Heinekens, the game on TV, and the methodical dismembering of hundreds of crawfish. In addition to the crawfish by the pound, which is offered "LA Cajun Style" or tossed in garlic butter, SJ's menu lists deep-fried shrimp and calamari, steamed clams with lemongrass, and something called a lobster ball. The crawfish, like the dingy restaurant, isn't as clean as it should be, but the meat comes out of the shell fresh, sweet, and numbingly spicy.
There are rituals to perform, props to ready, before you begin your meal at Red Crawfish. Wash your hands, for one, and enjoy the whisper of your dried fingertips rubbing together, because you won't hear it again until the end of the night. Take... More »
There's a no-nonsense utilitarian air here: The decor is limited to big mirrors, big tables, and a couple of big-screen TVs in a big, bland room. You come to eat, and eat messy. You order fresh crawfish, shrimp, Dungeness crab, oysters, and clams by the pound; sausage and (frozen, alas) cob corn by the each; everything is thrown together in a plastic bag with N'Awlins crab boil spices and butter, heated up in more ways than one (they'll ask you how spicy you like it; the medium will burn... More »
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