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Co Ba aims to serve the same kind of homey Vietnamese cooking offered at neighborhood stalls, though this version is prettified and refined. The long, enticing menu comprises small snacks, banh mi sandwiches, noodles, clay pot meals, and beef three ways, a dish that gets its own paragraph. All are reasonably priced. Of the small dishes, we particularly liked the steamed coconut rice cakes topped with shrimp, and a pungent mix of ground pork, wood-ear mushrooms, jicama, and fried shallots, doused in lime juice and fish sauce. Don't miss the banh uot thit nuong: It's a jumble of succulent grilled pork, bouncy Vietnamese ham, cucumbers, fried shallots, herbs, and cool, thick rice noodles. Of the clay pot dishes, go for the amazingly luscious pork belly in caramel.
Robert Sietsema's Top 10 1. This doesn't mean I'm forsaking my first love, Katz's pastrami, but the smoked-meat sandwich at Mile End is denser, redder, and offered in a sandwich that's just the right size for one person to eat, which means I... More »
New York lacks the bounty of great Vietnamese food that parts of Southern California and Northern Virginia enjoy, but for years, Steven Duong has been quietly trying to improve that. He's a prolific restaurateur who keeps a surprisingly low... More »
Cooking savory proteins in sweet caramel sauce is a common technique in Vietnam, and at Co Ba it results in the clay-pot caramel pork belly, one of the richest, most luscious dishes I've eaten in a long time. Chef and restaurateur Steven Duong first marinates the pork belly in fish sauce and pepper, then braises it in young coconut water, and combines it with daikon and tiny quail eggs in a simple caramel sauce. Finally, he simmers it gently for hours until the sauce is reduced to a dark,... More »
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