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Those who've grooved on Jim Lahey's vegetable-topped sheet pizzas at Sullivan Street Bakery (now located in Hell's Kitchen), won't recognize the products of this Roman-style pizzeria. Even the dough seems different, rolled thin and formed into irregular discs. The place looks like a garage, with concrete floors and spare decor-in the early days, one table was perpetually occupied by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and his entourage. The toppings of the pies often fall into the "unusual" category: the santo, par exemplum, crusted with shaved radicchio, béchamel, and onions; or the "special pie," which incorporates brussels sprouts and shaved chestnuts. When Lahey hits a home run, though, as in his margherita and "ham and cheese" pies (the latter with prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, pecorino, and gruyere), the baseball sails over the wall and clear into the next county.
Charlotte Druckman has written for Travel + Leisure, The Wall Street Journal, Town and Country, and many other publications about food and chef culture. But in her most recent endeavor -- a book tit... More »
[ See More Chef Interviews: Dragonfly's Cornelius Gallagher Quotes Bill Cosby, Is Influenced by Gray Kunz | Q&A with Chef Max Hardy on Cooking for the New York Knicks ] Yesterday we chatted with ... More »
The Trianon, of Naples, Italy This past Thursday, Fork in the Road put up a pizza quiz in which we offered photos of 10 margherita pies, all of them claiming to represent, in some way or another, th... More »
"Do you think we could get this without the truffles?" one of my friends asks me, as we stare at our $40 pizza. The bubbly surface is covered in béchamel, pecorino, and large slices of black truffle—wobbly edged, quarter-sized slices of the... More »
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