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An unprepossessing exterior hides a versatile eatery combining a casually sophisticated dinner restaurant, a power-lunch place, a gourmet to-go joint and more. The regional American menu rotates seafood, veal, game, pasta, fowl, beef, pork and lamb.
Jerry Jones orders it every time he lunches at this charming Parkie redoubt in the shadow of the Tollway. According to owner Paula Bruton, it's become so popular that it's now a constant lunch entrée as well as a dish they'll make as an off-the-menu dinner appetizer. It sounds so, well, odd. And then you taste it. It begins as a mound of the freshest spinach salad you ever tasted, topped with tart, sweet warm bacon dressing. Then it's smothered under a load of flash-fried chicken... More »
Chef Jason Gorman has done many wonderful things during his short time at the 16-year-old City Café. But among his finest is this: potato Stilton agnolotti (Piedmont-style ravioli) in herb truffle butter sauce. It's hard to overstate what a rich, balanced and focused culinary eruption this project becomes in the mouth. Arranged in a circle around the plate, the smooth pillows are delicate (almost like a pastry in character) but forceful, merging smoothly with the butter sauce. They're... More »
While (some) restaurants are evacuating Deep Ellum--East Wind Vietnamese Restaurant and the much-rumored but unconfirmed flight of Sambuca Jazz Café to the former Salve! space on McKinney Avenue--some battle-hardened mavericks armed with taps and... More »
The Dallas Morning News reported earlier this month that Phil and Janet Cobb's Salve! was choked off by lawsuits. (Apparently this admission was contained in a press release that a manager at the Cobbs' Mi Piaci refused to provide to the Observer... More »
To launch his next food, beverage and titillation projects, Sipango operator Ron Corcoron is bonding with a pair of new Dallas characters: Eric Kimmel, founder of The Joint restaurant, one-time publisher of defunct Ouch magazine and rag-picking... More »
City Café is one of those Dallas institutions that is perpetually in danger of laurel-resting, of desperately clinging to the vigor for which it was known in an earlier time. Back then, its reputation was established simply by serving up new... More »
Last week, City Cafe hosted an event pairing wild mushrooms with Pinot noir--a perfectly natural pairing if you believe the law of the land, since the same cool climate that produces fungus is also encouraging to the Pinot noir grape, the same... More »
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