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Two Morimoto veterans opened this minimalist, brick-walled space, presenting a notably brief menu that leans locavore à la David Chang: Expect Berkshire pork, farm-fresh eggs, and market veggies that include green tomatoes, eggplant, and corn. Although a few plates shine, such as a raw-and-fried kale salad studded with raisins, plump gyoza, and great chocolate macaron ice cream sandwiches ($5), the four ramen options ($12) tell another story. Their problem? Overcooked noodles and broths that are bland and oddly buttery (and not in a delectable Paula Deen kind of way).
This week, our own Tejal Rao visited Angelo Romano's latest venture, The Pines, in Gowanus, and found "a peeling tin patchwork of wall and ceiling glow[ing] with candlelight" emerging in the aftermath... More »
The deli ramen at Dassara imports three notions from Jewish delis: pastrami, matzo balls, and chicken broth. Maybe New York isn't the ramen capital of the world yet, but it is asserting itself as a ... More »
In times of stress, the appetite turns to ramen for comfort. By flickering candlelight in a West Village restaurant during the hurricane's aftermath, a friend and I sat talking noodles. "Why do all the ramen places in Brooklyn suck?" lamented the... More »
The East Village has solidified its rep as ramen central. It's home to Ippudo, Rai Rai Ken, Momofuku Noodle Bar, Menkui-Tei, and Setagaya, all courting diners nightly. One just-opened eatery in the nabe helps solidify that rep, but two other... More »
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